Gavi di Gavi (Cortese) : A crisp white wine from southern Piedmont

Gavi is one of Italy’s most celebrated white wines. It is made exclusively from the Cortese grape and comes from the rolling hills around the town of Gavi, in the province of Alessandria – in south-eastern Piedmont, right on the border with Liguria. That proximity is significant. Cool sea breezes blowing in from the nearby Mediterranean Sea give the wine its characteristic freshness and mineral touch. For centuries, it was the favourite wine of the Genoese aristocracy, served with seafood from the Ligurian coast – a tradition that still makes perfect sense today.

The two names: Gavi versus Cortese

It’s simple, if you separate the grape from the place.

Cortese is the indigenous white grape variety. It has been grown in Piedmont since at least the 17th century and can be cultivated in various parts of Piedmont and Lombardy and bottled under different DOC labels – Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato DOC, Piemonte Cortese DOC and others.

Gavi is something quite different. Officially designated as Gavi DOCG or Cortese di Gavi DOCG, it is a prestigious appellation reserved for wines made from 100% Cortese, grown in 11 specific municipalities around the town of Gavi. The top tier – “Gavi del Comune di Gavi” – comes exclusively from the historic municipality of Gavi itself. So: Cortese is the grape, Gavi is the place, and only the very best Cortese from those 11 municipalities deserves the DOCG designation.

Wine style

Gavi is mainly produced as a dry still wine (secco), although frizzante (slightly sparkling), spumante (fully sparkling) and riserva versions are also available, having aged for at least a year. In the glass, it is fresh and elegant – green apple, lime, white peach, grapefruit, white flowers, fresh almond and a mineral, briny note that sets it apart. Light to medium-bodied, with a bright, lively acidity and a clean finish that often carries that faint bitter almond note so characteristic of the Cortese grape.

Drink it young – within 1 to 3 years – and you’ll taste all that lively, zesty freshness. But top riserva bottlings are worth keeping.

Food pairings

The acidity, mineral backbone and delicate aromas of Gavi make it one of Italy’s most versatile wines at the table. Seafood is the obvious starting point: oysters, prawns, lobster, squid, seafood risotto, cacciucco, fritto misto di mare. Fish dishes also pair beautifully – grilled sea bass, sole, sea bream, anchovies, sardines, fish carpaccio.

For something a little more regional, try it with Ligurian classics: trofie al pesto, trenette with seafood, focaccia, stuffed vegetables. Fresh cheeses – goat’s cheese, mozzarella, burrata, ricotta, young Robiola – are natural companions. The same applies to lighter dishes such as salads, vegetable antipasti, vitello tonnato or prosciutto with melon.

But Gavi goes with much more than just Italian food. Sushi, sashimi, ceviche, Thai green curry and other light Asian dishes all find a suitable partner here. Even roast chicken, turkey fillet or herb-marinated pork go down a treat with it.

Serve at 8–10 °C.