Umberto Fracassi Ratti Mentone

Marquis Umberto Fracassi - the only wine producer in Cherasco - has reached the blissful age of 90. You wouldn't give it to him. He still makes his daily rounds to the supermarket and the like by bicycle.

I got to know Umberto Fracassi when I lived in Cherasco, in the hills of San Michele, which separate Cherasco and La Morra.

During my many walks with then Aussie dog Joe, I met him in the vineyard of Mantoetto. This was followed by an official invitation to an exclusive event from the municipal government of Cherasco. On the spot followed another request that I join them for lunch for Umberto's exclusive tasting at the Michelin star restaurant Da Francesco. (has now become Trentatre).

A place had become available due to a cancellation. And there began our story of importing his wines that are very, very sought after on the Belgian market.

Starting this year, a Nebbiolo d'Alba will be added. This in addition to the Barbera d'Alba Superiore, the Langhe Nascetta and soon the Favorita again (has sold so much that it is out of stock). Umberto is no longer active at fairs, he doesn't need to either. Wine tastings are only done for importers. We then just sit in the salon with this noble scion of the Fracassi's (not in the less cozy and too large hall).

What was Marquis Umberto's first contact with Belgium? In a distant past, the Fracassi's not only did wines but were also in a very prosperous business in the textile industry in Biella. He was co-owner at 18, alongside his parents, of course. He was sent to West Flanders to purchase machinery. However just as he doesn't look like he's 90 now either, he looked a lot younger at 18. When after the purchase discussion he brought out the check, the salesman briefly left the room to call the company to ask if this young man was actually allowed to write a check. When we still organized tastings for groups from Flanders (at Umberto's until 7 years ago), he told this anecdote with great pleasure.