Boca, character wine with longevity

The hills of Novara produce an exquisite wine with a small appellation.

It is a great mountain wine we are talking about, requiring time and attention, but rewarding with depth, elegance and absolute identity. A perfect synthesis between the austerity of nebbiolo and the delicacy of a pristine and balanced natural environment.

In Piedmont, in the heart of the province of Novara, at about 389 meters above sea level, lies Boca, a small village nestled among gentle hills of vineyards, overlooking the majestic mountain peaks that stand out against the background. The climate is characterized by mild and windy summers, thanks to the breezes blowing down from Monte Rosa, and by large temperature differences between day and night, especially in the final stage of ripening.

In Piedmont, in the heart of the province of Novara, at about 389 meters above sea level, lies Boca, a small village nestled among rolling vineyards, overlooking the majestic mountain peaks that stand out against the horizon. The climate is characterized by mild and windy summers, thanks to the breezes coming off Monte Rosa, and by a large temperature difference between day and night, especially in the final phase of ripening.

The DOC Boca, daughter of an extraordinary terroir

The small center of Boca gives its name to an equally small wine region that owes its uniqueness to an extraordinary terroir in terms of origin and complexity. The soil on which the vineyards extend is the result of a long geological process. The area of Boca is part of the fossil super volcano of Valsesia, one of the largest and most complex in the world, which today is also recognized as a UNESCO Geopark. The vineyards lie on ancient flows of red porphyry and on formations of acidic volcanic rocks, including tuff and granite.

This geological base gives the soil acidity, low levels of organic matter, good drainage and a pronounced wealth of minerals, elements essential to the area's wine quality, the characteristics of which are also reflected in the glass. Indeed, this type of soil gives the wines a decidedly mineral profile, with finely honed tannins and lively acidity. In addition, the lack of nutrients in the soil naturally reduces the plant's vigor, putting all the energy into ripening the grapes.

Over the centuries , local viticulture has developed significantly. The methods of viticulture, initially based on traditional agricultural practices, have been gradually refined thanks to the experience transferred and the increasing attention paid to quality, although some ancient practices are still carefully honored, such as the maggiorina, a traditional method of cultivation that is still practiced and maintained by some winemakers in the area, as a witness to a viticulture that is ancient and wise, incorporating centuries of adaptation to agriculture, empathetic knowledge of the area and a refined agronomic logic, often misunderstood in modern times.

Briefly, it is a four-part cultivation system in which three or four vines are placed at the corners of a square and the tendrils are tied radially to a sloping or horizontal frame about a meter and a half above the ground. Viewed from above, the structure resembles a cross or wheel. This arrangement creates a horizontal vegetation mat that effectively captures sunlight and protects the grape bunches from too much direct exposure, contributing to slow and even ripening. In recent years, some progressive producers have rediscovered the historical and ecological value of the maggiorina and reintroduced it for conservation and viticultural purposes.

The grape varieties of the DOC Boca

The area of the denominazione Boca extends over the whole territory of the municipality of Boca and partly over that of Maggiora, Cavallirio, Prato Sesia and Grignasco, in a promontory at the foot of the Pennine Alps, between the Valsesia and the high plain of Novara. We are at an altitude between 400 and 500 meters, which has a significant influence on the ripening of the grapes and the freshness of the wine.

The grapes used to produce Boca (of which we also have the Riserva variety) are nebbiolo (70 to 90%), vespolina and uva rara, which we also findin Lessona, pure or together in a percentage ranging from 10% to 30%. As for aging, for a Boca one must wait at least 34 months (of which at least 18 must be in wood); for a Boca Riserva, of course, it is a little longer: it must age for 46 months (of which at least 24 must be in wood).

Vespolina

We have talked about Nebbiolo many times, but now it is time for a few words about the two other grape varieties found in this appellation. The vespolina is a red grape that is native to northern Piedmont and grown mainly in the provinces of Novara, Vercelli and Biella. Although little known to the general public, this grape is well known to enthusiasts and producers in these regions, where it has been an essential component of traditional wines for centuries, both in blends with Nebbiolo and, more recently, in pure wines. The origins of the Vespolina are ancient and partly shrouded in mystery. The grape variety has been documented as early as the 18th century, but it was probably present in the region much earlier. The name could be derived from the word "vespa," referring to the sweetness of the ripe grapes that attract these insects. Modern genetic studies have shown that the Vespolina belongs to the same family as the Nebbiolo, with which it is somewhat related, and that it is also related to other local varieties such as the Croatina and the Uva Rara, although it is clearly distinguished by its morphological, phenological and aromatic characteristics.

Uva Rara

This grape is grown mainly in certain areas of northeastern Piedmont, but is also found in Lombardy, especially in the Oltrepò Pavese. Thanks to its soft aroma and good adaptability, which contributes significantly to the balance of many wines from northern Italy, it is often used as a supporting grape in blends. Although the name suggests an exotic or infrequent variety, it is in fact a generic name that has been used for several local varieties over the centuries. To avoid confusion, it is useful to mention that in the context of Piedmont and Oltrepò Pavese, uva rara generally refers to bonarda novarese, a variety genetically distinct from bonarda piemontese and croatina (which in Oltrepò is also simply called bonarda, but has nothing to do with our uva rara).

Wines with the designation Boca generally have a lot of character and longevity. However, they are quite limited productions, which contributes to a certain exclusivity and high value among lovers of exclusive wines. The dedication of local winemakers to keeping production quality high ensures that each bottle best expresses the unique characteristics of this area. Thus we get wines with subtle aromas, vaguely floral and spicy notes, a mouthfeel contrasted by fine tannins and a vertical dynamic and savory, mineral undertone.

Link to the Boca Page online: Podere ai Valloni Boca Vigna Cristiana doc 2015