Interview with Umberto Fracassi Ratti Mentone - Barolo Mantoetto
Posted on: 26-10-2018 om 07:57:18
| Karina Imschoot
Umberto Fracassi's family has been producing Barolo since 1880. Back then, a Barolo was a sweet wine. After the Second World War, Marchese Fracassi, or Umberto for short, dedicated himself to the tradition of producing Barolo in Slavic oak barrels.
The town of Cherasco is located in the north-western corner of the Barolo area, just west of La Morra and Verduno. Their cultivation area includes Fracassi's two-hectare Barolo monopole cru Mantoetto, a Barolo that is suitable for drinking right now but also for storing. This area is also known as the capital of snail production in Italy. Umberto also produces some white Favorita (Vermentino), a good way to start a meal, as the Barolo reveals itself above all in the decanter. Of course, between two wines Favorita and Barolo there is a whole range of other wines: Dolcetto, Dolcetto Superiore, Nascetta (the trendsetter in terms of white), the Barbera Superiore.
An interview with the 85-year-old winemaker
Karina: As a Cherachee, I naturally know what is going on in this community that I have been a part of for the last six years, but let's assume for a moment that I know "nothing" about you, your vineyards, your beautiful cellar, etc.. So I can tell the public what matters. Tell the audience your life story...and all that surrounds it.
Umberto Fracassi Ratti Mentone (title of nobleman, housed in a prestigious palazzo) from now on abbreviated as Umberto: Our vineyards are located in the hills between La Morra and Cherasco, actually just on the border of what is still under the Barolo regime and the Barolo Mantoetto counts only 2 hectares with entirely southern exposure.
Cherasco is situated between the Tanaro and the Stura river, a few kilometres from La Morra and this village (city seems a bit too big to me) exists since the 13th century. Remember that what is now Rome was then the capital Turin. We are only 45 minutes to 1 hour from Turin. The Romans had vineyards here, and they had to cultivate them, it was a way to "keep" the public here and not have them move elsewhere. Afterwards, the Savoia family came to this town/village and Cherasco had the enormous advantage of having to pay less taxes. The synagogue is not insignificant either. Every weekend, dozens of people come to discover the importance of their ancestors here in this region.
Karina: How did it all start for you in a very active way.
Umberto: When my father died in 1985, we were saddled with choices. My brother had no interest whatsoever in the vineyards and I all the more. So we agreed immediately, a unique thing for Piedmontese who don't take years to agree. In our cellar there were already labels from the 1800s, but also from 1904, those wines were promoted in 1911 at the Turin exhibition.
You should know that Barolo did not exist in our winery until 1962, before that a Barolo was just a Nebbiolo. We had besides the 2 hectares for Barolo also some other vineyards like Barbera, the most easy production from grape to wine.
Karina: Why is your wine Mantoetto the ideal solution for those who do not want to take 10, 20 or 30 years to have a perfect Barolo?
Umberto: There is a big difference between the Barolos from Monforte, Serralunga and our Barolo Mantoetto. Who buys Barolos from Cherasco, Verduno, Roddi, has Barolo that can be drunk NOW. Which of course you can keep and are even better but you do not need to have a wine cellar to let them lie for another 10 to 15 years. Let's be honest: most wine lovers do not manage to keep a wine for 15 years/20 years. Although our Mantoetto is certainly increasing in impact.
Karina: So what is the secret that you apply to having a Barolo on the market that can be consumed immediately, compared to quite a few wines from the Monforte region that can only be consumed after 15 more years of ageing in the customer's cellar?
Umberto: This has everything to do with "terroir". The composition of the subsoil is completely different here on the border of La Morra with Cherasco compared to Monforte. The work in the cantina also makes a difference. We want the perfect taste, smell and composition. We leave the wines in fermentation for barely a week. Not 25 days as is the norm in Monforte & Serralunga. With my 85 years - blessed age - I get up three times a night to check the "bollito" of the wines. I ensure maximum wine control and produce especially for those who want to drink the perfect Barolo NOW.
Karina: Tell me a few anecdotes, a few issues that make the difference between you, a small-scale producer with 85 years on the counter, and the big ones that spend a phenomenal budget on marketing and so actually pay a lot extra?
Send us an email at sales@madeinpiedmont-wines.be and receive 2 x Wine Tasting Tubes Barolo Mantoetto 2016 for the price of 5 euros (shipping, cost of wine tasting tube, content). Payment can be made via invoice that will be enclosed in your package.
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